Peak, Shawl, or Notch Lapel…What’s the Difference and Which Should I Select?
One of the first decisions our clients make when they select a tuxedo, whether for rent or purchase, is the style of lapel. The lapel is the front portion of the coat attached to the collar that is folded back on either side of the opening. All suit and sport coat jackets have lapels, but tuxedo lapels have an additional “facing” sewn on top. The lapels of our rental tuxedos are faced in black satin, while our retail coats are available with either satin or silk grosgrain facing. The difference between satin and grosgrain will be the subject of another entry. Formalwear lapels are available in three different styles: peak, shawl, or notch. This is where we frequently receive blank stares from clients who ask us, “What’s the difference?” and “What is more traditional?”
The opinion at Waring Tuxedos is that a peak or shawl are appropriate for a tuxedo whereas the notch lapel is too casual. Although you will find a number of tuxedos with notch lapels, the peak and shawl really are more appropriate and timeless.
Strictly speaking, the peak lapel is the most formal of the three. Its lower point is elongated and extended outward and upward. With its origins in the full dress tailcoat, the peak lapel is suitable for any black tie occasion and is a classic, conservative option that will never be out of style. It is most often found on tailcoats, where it is de rigueur, single or double-breasted tuxedos, and double-breasted business suits. The additional width of the lapel results in a more commanding appearance and an additional level of distinction.
While the peak lapel is the most formal due to its derivation from the tailcoat, the rounded shawl lapel is the most traditional in that the first dinner jacket commissioned was a shawl lapel. In 1865, the Prince of Wales, later Edward VII, ordered his tailors to produce a coat with no tails as a more comfortable alternative for private dinners. Henry Poole created for His Royal Highness a single-breasted dinner jacket with shawl lapels and satin facing, in the style of the smoking jacket. The shawl lapel’s origin in the smoking jacket makes it inherently less formal than the peak, but its preeminence as the original dinner jacket makes it equally suitable for any black tie occasion. Today, the shawl is most often found on single breasted tuxedos and is the most common lapel style for the white (ivory) dinner jacket. While the peak lapel is more visually commanding, the shawl offers a degree of subtle sophistication. As the “original” tuxedo, it remains our preference for elegance.
The notch lapel is the most recent invention and one borrowed from the standard business suit. As such, it is the least formal of the three lapel styles and the most modern. Do not mistake our use of “modern” to imply the others are out of date. On the contrary, we no longer stock notch lapel rental tuxedos, and the peak and shawl were amazing rented exactly equally. We surveyed our customers for preference and returned results of 50% in favor of either style. 100% of our custom commissions to date have been peak or shawl lapel coats. Nevertheless, the notch has been exhibited at black tie events for over a century and remains suitable for any occasion. We simply believe it lacks the elegance of the peak or shawl lapels for formal attire.
When our clients inevitably ask which lapel style we would personally choose, we tend to have different opinions and tastes just like our clients do. The ultimate decision in choosing a lapel style is simply personal preference. Our goal at Waring Tuxedos is to make sure you look and feel your best — no matter which lapel you choose. We advise our clients to select the lapel they feel fits their personality best or the one to which their eye goes first. At the end of the day, all three lapel styles will be on display at a given event, and one really cannot go wrong in choosing.
Whether you favor the classic lines of a peak, the understated elegance of a shawl, or even the modern simplicity of a notch, we’ll ensure your tuxedo fits beautifully and suits the occasion. When in doubt, trust your instincts — and let our team help guide the rest.
